Improvement in patterns for laying out garments



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To all 'whom 'it may concern:

, y l Be it knownthat I, WILLIAMM'. MICHAEL, of Iug ,a diana, in thecounty of Indiana, and State of Pennsylvania, have 'inventeda 'new andimproved' Mode of v Laying out Garments; and I do hereby declare that ithe following is a full, clear, and `exact description thereof, whichwill enable others skilled in the art to make and usethe same, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of thisspecification,

This invention relates to an improved mode of laying out' garments for`cntting,iand"in, patterns and scalosforcarrying ont the same. a

" '.lheinvention comprises 1a mode ,of laying `out the different partsof a garment by` lines and measures, from a central point` within thesaid part-s, bymeans of patterns for eachpait of the garments, and ascale bearing theirelations to the diierentmeasurements of the persontobe tted, as hereinafter described. The drawing represents a plan` viewof a pattern,-

` snchasI employ for the. fore partA ofga vest;` also, a

plan view of a scale (reduced in size) for indicating the measures. x

For any part of a garment, for instance, the fore `part of a vest, Imake a pattern, A, ofthe exact fornr, though smallerthan the full size'furthe said `part, preferably ou a scale of one-third the medium size.7 a

0n this, I` establish acentre at B, and makea small `hole through itatthe said centre.

I also draw the lilies C from the centre, to the promf inent-points `orcorners ofthepattern, as many as may `be found most convenient.`

i I then divide the measure, of the medium circumference at the breastof a man, into the number of parts and fractionsofparts, as below.Foryinstance,

the measure of the said Vmedinmoii'ulnference is, say, thirty-fourinches; this I divide'into equal parts of about nine-,tenths of an inch,`and each part into four. or more fractionalparts. I then'make a scalewith these divisions and parts of di .'isions', ofthe length of'`twenty-twoof the said divisions.

I then ascertain, bymeasurement taken upon a part of a garment,previously cut by any rule correspending to the one iin-which thepattern in hand is designed, both in shape and size, how many of theseparts or divisions on the scale it takes to mea-sure the said part onall the lines from the centre B to the eX- terior points, and Isetthenieasures for each line so obtained, 'on the pattern A, bythe sideofthe respectivelines to which they belong. For instance,

from the centreB `to-thetop ofthe front part of a vest, forapcrsonthirty-four inch es around the breast,

l the` scale having the said twenty-two parts, shows,

byf actual measure on the part already cut by any rule, to benine andone-quarter parts, which is placed at the outer extremity ot'the-pattern on the line C, running wLLIAM M. MICHAEL, ori INDIANA,PENNSYLVANIA.

` Laar; Patem'1v0.'97,c72, daad December 7,1869.

` lto the topdat D. Frorntbe said centre to ,the point y which cornesunder the arm, the measure is three and one-half parts, as at E. Fromthe centre to the bottom rear corner, the distance is represented bytwelve parts, as-at F,`and so on.y

Now, by this pattern, which, as above stated, I prefer to'make aboutone-third theV scale ofthe part of the garment,'and this rule I layoutvests for persons of any size, in the following way: Y

Assuming the measure of the person tobe, around ithe breast, thirty-fourinches, which may be considered the mediuml size, I rst find the centreB, to measure from, by measuring down from the top ofthe cloth, nine andone-quarter parts, as indicated by the `pattern A, and make a markopposite this mark; and 'from the front of the cloth 4andthe operator,as it lies on vthe table, I measure three and one-half parts, iindingthe required central point; here I place a small atheaded rivet, G, withtheI point upward, and over this, Ilay the pattern A, taking care torange the lines at I) and E, properly toward the top and front. Then,with the scale H, or anyother straight rule,

placed parallel with the lines-G, I,l mark coincident,

lines on the cloth. Then, engaging the scale H with the rivet, I measureofi' the distance en the lines indicated by the ligures at each line,marking the cloth, and from these points so marked, the straight andcurved lines for the edges of the part of the garmentV may be struckwith straight edges, sweeps, curves, or in any ofthe well-known ways.

If the circumference of the person, however, measures more thanthirty-four inches, by one or more inchest then I iucre'asethe measureson the lines-by one or more parts on the scale, and if less, I diminishthe measures in the same way.

This 'mode is alike applicable to all parts of garments, whether ofcoats, vests, pantaloons, ladies dresses, or others, and I employ it inlaying out the.4

several 'parts of all, making suitable patterns for each particularpart; but upon 'the same plan and using the same scale, which I havefound corresponds most nearly to the proportionate variations of themeasures of the diierent parts of the human body.

Having thus described my invention,

What I claim as new, -and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is A Thecombination of the pattern A and scale H, the

former having the lines C and central point Gr delineat edthereon,andthe latter being graduated as'described, the two arranged for jointoperation, as speci? iied.

WM. MrMICHAEL.

lWitnesses 1 GEO. E. SMITH, WM. It. BLACK.

